Kristen's Recipes

Stock Making: Hints and Tips

Poultry, meat, fish, and vegetable stocks all utilize the same techniques, differing only in small details.

The aim of stock making is to produce a rich, flavorful broth; therefore, use only enough water to cover the solid ingredients by 1½ inches.

To make a rich, flavorful stock, you must use a high percentage of meat, rather than bones only. Luckily, however, the cheaper cuts of meat and poultry are generally the most flavorful. You can make a light poultry stock with a carcass from a roasted bird, but it will not have the rich flavor of a stock made from uncooked meat and bones.

A non-corrosive stockpot should be used when acid is included in the list of stock ingredients, as with wine in fish stock.

When meat or poultry is heated in water, it releases albumin particles that will cloud the broth if not removed. The water must be heated very slowly to draw out the impurities, which will form a scum on the surface, where they can be skimmed off. This process usually takes 15-20 minutes.

When making meat, poultry, or fish white stock, the skimming process should be completed before adding aromatic vegetables. If vegetables are included at the beginning, they will interfere with skimming. With brown stocks, there is not much skimming required, so roasting the larger vegetables along with the meat is fine.

All stocks should be cooked at a bare simmer. Rapid boiling will cause solid ingredients to disintegrate and cloud the stock.

Meat stock requires 5-6 hours of cooking time; Poultry stock requires 3-4 hours of cooking time; Fish or vegetable stock requires only 45-60 minutes of cooking time.

Seasonings, particularly salt, should not be added until the stock has been concentrated and reduced; or seasonings can be left out altogether so that the future dish utilizing the stock can be individually flavor-balanced.

Stock can be produced more rapidly if finely chopped meat or poultry is used in place of bone-in carcass pieces. The finer the ingredients are chopped, the more surface area is exposed to the simmering water, and the more quickly the ingredients will give up their flavor to the liquid. In this way, acceptable stock can be produced in 1 ½ hours.

The flavor of a rapidly made stock will be good, but because no bones or trimmings are generally used, it will be short on gelatin, thus much lighter in body.

Rapid stock technique does not involve skimming because the many particles of meat “catch” the albumin particles and hold them until final straining.

Stock should be refrigerated after it is of acceptable strength. A flavor change (souring) may occur if hot stock is refrigerated with a cover, therefore, chill thoroughly first, then cover.
Refrigerated stock should be simmered for several minutes every 2-3 days to keep it from spoiling.

Stock may be frozen. Ladle clear, cool stock into heavy-duty, zip-lock freezer bags, seal carefully, and freeze. (Two C. batches are most convenient.) Still in the plastic bag, thaw in warm water; or remove from the bag and heat gently in a small saucepan; or place in a bowl and thaw in the microwave.

Brown Poultry Stock

According to The New Larousse Gastronomique, Brown Stock can be made from beef, veal, or poultry. It’s the method that’s important, and that involves thorough browning of the meat, bones, and vegetables in fat prior to the long, slow simmering generally associated with stock-making. The following formula is for poultry brown stock, probably the least commonly used of the three types. When I make a brown turkey stock, I buy a small turkey, remove the legs and whole breast to roast later and cut the rest of the bird unto pieces for the stock.

¼ C. vegetable oil
5-6 pounds turkey parts (necks, wings, backs, bones, gizzards)
6 stalks celery, leaves and all, roughly chopped
3 carrots, roughly chopped
2 onions, with skins, quartered
4 unpeeled garlic cloves
small handful of parsley, stems and all
1 bay leaf
2 whole cloves
1 sprig fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried
cold water to cover

In a large roasting pan, put the oil, turkey parts, celery, carrots, onions, garlic, and parsley. (If you have a large Le Creuset casserole, use it. You will be able to take it straight from the oven and onto the burner for the simmering stage. No fuss, no muss.) Roast, at 450°, uncovered, on the middle rack in the oven, turning pieces occasionally until well browned, 1-1½ hours. Remove from the oven and transfer the browned ingredients to a large (10-14 quart) stockpot. Deglaze the roasting pan with a little water, scraping up all the bits and pieces of coagulated meat juices from the bottom and sides. (Don’t worry about the fat at this point. It will come off later and in the meantime contributes flavor to the developing stock.) Pour all of the collected juices (everything) into the stockpot. Add cold water to the stockpot to cover the meat and bones by 1½ inches. Heat slowly. When the liquid comes to a bare simmer, regulate the heat to maintain, and then begin to skim off any scum that forms on the surface. Above all, do not stir the stock at this point, as this action will incorporate the clouding particles into the liquid. Continue skimming until the scum ceases to accumulate, about 15-20 minutes. Now add the bay leaf, cloves, thyme, and more water, if necessary, to maintain the beginning level. Partially cover and continue cooking at a very slow simmer for 3-4 hours, partially covered if desired. (Overnight is fine.) Remove the large ingredients from the stockpot with a large slotted spoon, and put the stock through a triple mesh strainer. There will be virtually no flavor or nutrients left in the solid ingredients at this point; they should be discarded. Allow the hot stock to settle for 5-10 minutes before attempting to remove the fat. Then, skim the surface with a spoon, draw a “grease-catcher” brush across the surface, or use a bottom-pouring degreaser (available in most kitchenware stores and definitely the easiest of the three methods) to remove the fat. If time is not critical, refrigerate the stock, uncovered, until the fat hardens, at which point, it can be easily removed. After the stock is thoroughly degreased, check it for taste. If there is not enough flavor, simply boil it down to concentrate its strength. Salt may be added now if desired, although I think it is generally preferable to wait with this until the final dish is prepared utilizing the stock. Refrigerate, covered, remembering to boil the stock for several minutes every few days to keep it from spoiling, or freeze in 2-C. batches.

Preheat oven to 300. Cut several pieces of bread into strips. Feed them into a food processor fitted with a shredder attachment. Spread on a sheet pan and bake for 6-8 minutes, tossing every two minutes or so. You don’t want them to brown, you just want them crispy.

To make an outrageously good sauce for grilled beef, melt a stick of butter over medium heat. When the butter foams, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until it turns from yellow to medium brown but not black, 5 to 7 minutes. Watch the butter carefully so it doesn’t burn. Pour the brown butter into a small, heat-proof bowl, leaving the sediment in the pan. Raise the heat to medium and pour balsamic vinegar into the pan, swirling it and letting it boil down to about half its volume. Remove from the heat and pour the brown butter back into the pan to combine. Drizzle over grilled steaks. A grating of fresh horseradish takes this over the top.

To make a marinade for your favorite steaks, combine 6 ounces beer, 1/4 cup tomato sauce, 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, and 1 tablespoon steak seasoning. Marinate in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours before grilling or broiling.

To rescue an egg that cracks while being hard-cooked, add a teaspoon of distilled white vinegar to the cooking water. The vinegar will cause the egg white to coagulate and stop seeping from the shell. The same principle works with poached eggs too. Add a tablespoon of vinegar to the poaching liquid to help the egg whites set up before they spread too much.

To help a peeled and sliced cucumber stay crisp, put the cucumber slices in a colander and sprinkle them with 2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of sugar. Use your fingertips to rub the mixture into the slices for 1 minute. Weight down the slices with a large zip-close bag full of water and let the cucumber drain in the colander for 15 minutes. Rinse and pat dry before using for cooking or a salad.

To give shrimp cocktail just the right amount of acidity, combine 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar, 1 bottle (12 ounces) beer, 2 tablespoons crab boil seasoning, such as Old Bay, and 1/2 teaspoon hot-pepper sauce in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and add a pound of shrimp. Simmer until the shrimp are pink and cooked through, 2 to 4 minutes. Drain the shrimp and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 2 days. Serve cold with cocktail sauce.

To make Brussels sprouts that everyone will love, cut the sprouts in half and cook, cut side down, in a skillet with a little olive oil until the bottoms brown, about 10 minutes. Add 2 teaspoons of best-quality balsamic vinegar, shaking the pan to distribute it evenly. Cover and simmer on medium-low until the sprouts are tender, 10 minutes. Finish with 1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Fish fillets, shellfish, vegetables Light, crisp whites: dry riesling, muscadet and unoaked sauvignon blanc and chardonnay
Beef or lamb chunks, tuna or salmon steaks Soft, juicy reds such as merlot, syrah, beaujolais and cotes du rhone
Chicken light, crisp whites or soft, juicy reds
Apricots, plums, pears, tropical fruit Sweet whites, such as sweet riesling, white zinfandel, muscat and sauternes
Berries, figs Sweet reds, such as ruby port and port-style zinfandel
Blue Cheese Fortified Liqueur Tawny, Shiraz Cabernet, Shiraz;
Soft, creamy cheese Chardonnay, Cabernet Merlot, Merlot;
Goat’s & Sheep’s Cheese Merlot, Cabernet Merlot, Chardonnay, Shiraz;
Hard Cheese Shiraz Cabernet, cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Shiraz
Italian Cuisine: Cream Sauce Semillon Chardonnay, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir;
Italian Cuisine: Tomato Sauce Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Pinot Noir
Mexican Cuisine: Green Chile Sauce Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay-Riesling;
Mexican Cuisine: red Chile Sauce Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Blends
Asian Cuisine: Chinese & Thai Semillon Chardonnay, Shiraz Cabernet, Cabernet Blends;
Asian Cuisine: Sushi Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
Indian Cuisine: Tandoori Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir
Indian Cuisine: Curries Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir