Cherry Stone Panna Cotta

This delicate, wobbling cream is perfumed with the mysterious cherry-almond essence contained in the kernel of the cherry pits— a reward for pitting the cherries.

3 pounds cherries

2 1/4 cups heavy cream, or more if needed

1 1/2 cups whole milk

3/4 cup sugar

2 1/4 teaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin (1 envelope is 1 tablespoon)

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

Pit the cherries, reserving 1/2 cup pits, and set the cherries aside for serving. Rinse the pits to remove any remaining fruit, and rub them in a clean tea towel to dry them. Now smash the pits: put them in another tea towel on a hard surface and smash them with a hammer so that they split open. Picking out just the kernels is tedious—it’s fine to use the kernels and shells together.  Combine the pits, cream, milk, and sugar in a medium stainless-steel saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes. (Like apple seeds, cherry pits contain  very small amounts of cyanide, which is toxic only in relatively large quantities. However, heating the cherry pits will release fumes that you should not breathe in, so do this in a well-ventilated area and do not stick your head directly over the pan while the pits are simmering.) Remove from the heat, cover tightly, and set aside to steep for 1 hour.  Uncover the pan and return the liquid to a simmer. Meanwhile, put 2 tablespoons cold water in a medium bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over the water to allow it to soften. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes.  Strain the hot liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a measuring cup. You need 4 cups liquid total; add a little more cream if necessary. Slowly pour the hot cream mixture over the gelatin, whisking gently to dissolve the gelatin. Whisk in the salt and taste.  Set the bowl into an ice bath. Stir frequently so the panna cotta cools evenly. When it is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes, divide it among eight 4-ounce custard or tea cups. Cover the cups tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until set, 4 to 6 hours.  Serve in the cups or unmold if desired by gradually tipping the cup upside down above a plate while lifting one side of the panna cotta off the cup and easing it onto the plate. Serve with some of the fresh cherries.