Pan-roasted Clams with Sake

2 1/2 pounds small littleneck or Manila clams

1 tablespoon expeller-pressed vegetable oil

1/2 cup sake

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup thinly sliced scallions, white and light green parts

Kosher salt, if needed

Scrub the clams thoroughly with a brush under cold running water. Drain them in a colander and pat them dry with a paper towel.  Heat a large sauté pan over high heat. When the pan is very hot, add the oil and immediately add the clams. Give them a shake, and cook for one minute. Add the sake, and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for another minute, shaking the pan every 10 seconds. Check the clams: If most of them are open, cover again until all the clams are open, again shaking the pan a little. If only a few have opened, lower the heat and continue to cook, removing clams as they open.

When all the clams have opened, remove the pan from the heat and add the butter (and any clams you removed). Add the scallions and swirl until all the butter is melted. Taste, and season with salt if necessary.