8 bone-in skinless chicken thighs
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
Fine sea salt
Black pepper, freshly ground
2 oz. pancetta, finely chopped
1 onion, coarsely chopped
Large branch fresh rosemary
Large sprig fresh thyme
5 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
1 1/4 C. dry white wine
1 1/2 C. chicken broth, preferably homemade
1 slice lemon, about 1/4-inch thick
1 C. pitted and halved picholine, lucques or other brine-cured green olives
Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Brush the chicken thighs on all sides with olive oil, then season generously with salt and pepper. Place the chicken in a large, heavy ovenproof roasting pan and roast for 20 minutes, until golden. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees. Transfer the chicken to a platter and pour almost all the fat from the pan. Place the pan over medium heat and add the pancetta, onion, rosemary and thyme. Sauté for about 5 minutes, until the onion is tender, then add the garlic and stir for 1 minute. Return the chicken to the pan and add the wine. Bring to a simmer and reduce by about half, for 8 to 10 minutes, tipping the pan and skimming the fat occasionally. Add the chicken broth, lemon slice, 1/4 tsp. salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Bring to a boil, cover tightly with foil and transfer to the oven. Cook for 30 minutes, turn the chicken pieces over, add the olives and continue cooking for about 20 minutes more, uncovered, until the chicken is very tender. Transfer the chicken to a warm platter, cover with foil and reduce the sauce over high heat to concentrate the juices, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the vestiges of the herb branches and the lemon slice, return the chicken to the pan for a moment and serve, spooning plenty of the chunky sauce over the top.
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