Roasting clams on a bed of salt and herbs until they open allows them to develop a rich flavor undiluted by steam or liquid. Once the salt cools and can be comfortably handled, you can spoon it into a glass jar to reuse it for salt roasting in the future. A simple garlic butter enriches the notorious leanness of the clams. Clams number among the best seafood choices for consumers concerned about the environmental impact of their food choices because they’re abundant and can generally be farmed without pollution, as well as wild harvested without seriously impacting the oceanic ecosystem.

4 pounds littleneck clams
Coarse unrefined sea salt, to line the baking dish
2 sprigs rosemary
2 sprigs thyme

2 T. unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 C. white wine
2 T. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp. chopped fresh oregano

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Scrub the clams under cold water to remove any grit or other debris adhering to them. Discard any clams that do not close when you tap on them. Line a large baking dish with coarse sea salt to a depth of V2 inch. Scatter the rosemary and thyme over the salt and nestle the clams in a single layer into the bed of salt and herbs. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until the clams open, discarding any clams that fail to open after 15 minutes. As the clams bake, make the garlic butter. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. When it foams, stir in the garlic and red pepper flakes and fry’ until the garlic softens, just a few minutes. Pour in the white wine and simmer until it reduces by half, about 6 minutes. Plate the clams in shallow bowls. Pour the butter sauce over the clams, sprinkle with the parsley and oregano, and serve.