There is no substitute for canvasback duck. It is a unique taste in the animal world, one you cannot replicate with a domestic duck or even another worthy wild duck, like a mallard or pintail. That is not to say you cannot do this with any of these lesser stand-ins, but be prepared to be in awe when you finally get the chance, someday, to taste the real thing.

As for the other things on this plate, white hominy grits are easily bought in much of this country, but California (where I live) is not one of them. So I use polenta instead. Any breadcrumbs are fine. For the fat I went authentic and fried the little cakes in lard, but I would only recommend this if you can get fresh-rendered lard. Never use the hydrogenated stuff that needs not be refrigerated. Use butter instead. Keep in mind you need to make the hominy a few hours ahead to let it cool.

Red currant jelly is sold in many supermarkets, but you can use any red fruit jelly really. I used chokecherry syrup from Montana, but cherry syrup or jelly would be ideal, as would cranberry jelly or syrup. You are looking for red and tart.

I use glace de viande for my pan sauces, and so should you. You can either use my recipe for duck demi-glace and make it yourself, or you can buy it online.

Serve this with a bitter green salad, dressed with a light coating of walnut oil and white wine vinegar, and serve with a big, burly red wine. This would be the time to break out the Bordeaux.

1 cup finely ground hominy or polenta
Salt
5 cups water
1 canvasback duck or other whole duck, plucked and gutted
1/4 cup butter or duck fat, divided
1 egg, beaten
1 cup breadcrumbs
1 shallot, minced
1/3 cup red currant jelly or syrup
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup demi-glace (or 1 cup stock reduced to 1/4 cup)
A dash of hot sauce

Make the hominy by bringing the water and about a tablespoon of salt to a boil. Start stirring the water and pour the hominy grits into the water in a steady stream. Turn the heat to low and cook this for at least 20 minutes, and up to an hour, stirring occasionally. Turn out the grits into a loaf pan or other small, high-sided container and let cool for at least 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 500°F, or if your oven won’t get that high, as high as it will go. This would be the time to fire up the pizza oven, if you have one. Pat the canvasback dry with a paper towel and salt the inside. Smear duck fat or butter all over the bird and salt it well on the outside. Let this sit at room temperature for at least 2o minutes, while your oven heats up. Meanwhile, turn the cooled hominy grits out onto a cutting board and slice off the side that had been exposed to air. Cut the rest into shapes of your choice. Get a bowl with your egg ready, and another bowl for the breadcrumbs. Put the canvasback in an oven-proof pan — I use a cast-iron pan — and set the timer for 18 minutes. Once you do this, put the remaining butter or lard into a frying pan and heat it on medium-high. As soon as it is hot, dredge the hominy grits in egg, then the breadcrumbs and fry in the lard until golden. Set aside on a paper towel to drain. At the 10-minute mark of roasting, baste the canvasback with some butter or duck fat. When it is done to your liking, take the duck out, remove it from the hot pan and set it on the cutting board tented loosely with foil. A medium-rare duck will be about 18 minutes, medium 20-22, and don’t go past 25 minutes unless the canvasback is really fatty. Domestic ducks will need this extra time. Look for a temperature in the breast of about 135-140°F. As the duck is resting, make sure you have at least 2 tablespoons of fat in the pan you roasted the bird in. Set this on the stove over medium heat. Be careful, as the pan will be hot. Add the shallots and sauté for 2 minutes, or until they begin to brown. Add the remaining sauce ingredients and any salt if needed. Bring this to a rolling boil and let it cook down until a wooden spoon dragged through it leaves a noticeable trail. You want a thick consistency, but not so much as syrup or gravy. Carve the canvasback (save the carcass for duck stock) and add any juices to the sauce. Pour some sauce on the plate, add a hominy cake or two and top with the duck. Serve at once.