12 ounces fresh chanterelle mushrooms or 10 oz. shiitake mushrooms

6 ounces slab pancetta or thick-cut bacon, diced

3 pounds baby Yukon Gold potatoes, halved lengthwise (if potatoes are longer than 2 in., cut into quarters)

4 medium cloves garlic, minced

2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

3/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

2 T. butter

1 medium shallot, minced

1/3 C. Chardonnay or other white wine

2 T. chopped fresh tarragon

1 T. chopped chives

1/2 C. White-Wine Vinaigrette

 

Preheat oven to 375°. Wipe chanterelles with a damp cloth or scrape with a knife to remove dirt; cut away dry, woody parts. Tear mushrooms into 1-in. pieces. Cook pancetta in a large frying pan over medium-high heat until crisp and browned, about 7 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels, reserving drippings. Toss potatoes with 3 T.. reserved pancetta drippings (see Notes), garlic, thyme, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Divide potatoes between two 9- by 13-in. glass baking pans. Bake, stirring every 10 minutes, until tender, well browned, and crispy, 25 to 35 minutes. Remove from oven and keep warm. Melt butter in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add shallot and cook until soft, 1 minute. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Add Chardonnay, remaining 1/2 tsp. salt, and remaining 1/4 tsp. pepper; scrape up browned bits and cook until liquid evaporates, about 2 minutes. In a large bowl, toss together potatoes, mushrooms, pancetta, tarragon, and chives. Drizzle with vinaigrette. Serve warm, with fennel-spiced wild salmon.