Leeks Vinaigrette
8 medium leeks (3 1/2 pounds)
2 tsp. salt
2 oz thinly sliced pancetta, chilled
5 T. extra-virgin olive oil
1 T. red-wine vinegar
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
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Cut off dark green tops of leeks and trim root ends. Halve each leek lengthwise to within 2 inches of root end. Rinse well under cold running water to wash away sand. Cover leeks with cold water in a 12-inch heavy skillet. Add salt and simmer leeks, uncovered, until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer leeks to a bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. While leeks simmer, finely chop pancetta, then cook in 1 T. oil over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Whisk together vinegar, mustard, remaining 1/4 C. oil, and salt and pepper to taste in a bowl until emulsified. Add leeks and gently toss to coat. Serve topped with pancetta and parsley.