Cecilia O’Brien’s Mulberry Syrup

Mulberries are super-abundant in June and July, and not bad to eat. But that’s just it—they’re not bad. I’d always felt there was a way to get more flavor out of them but got bogged down with the idea of dealing with those pesky stems. The answer to my mulberry question came one June evening as my wife and I were sitting on the back porch at the home of our friends, Joe and Cecilia O’Brien, in southwest Wisconsin. The trees on the bluffs behind them swayed, and the light of evening was just coming on. It was also the height of mulberry season and one of their lovely children had just picked a bucketful. When Cecilia explained these were destined for syrup, my ears perked up. And when I heard there was no stem-pulling or pectin involved, I got out my notebook double-time. Here was the perfect way to deal with mulberries: amping up their flavor with minimal work. Mulberry syrup is great, served warmed, over French toast or pancakes with some crisp sausage or bacon on the side.

 

1 quart fresh-picked mulberries, rinsed

1 cup of sugar, or more as needed

 

Put mulberries and sugar in a heavy saucepan. Cook down until berries are reduced to a loose syrup. Put through a strainer; discard solids and return strained syrup to pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until syrup reaches desired consistency. Test and add more sugar if you like it sweeter. Store in sterilized jars and refrigerate. You can also freeze mulberry syrup as you would containers of freezer jam.