Marjoram and Chive Salt

 

How you dry this salt is everything. Leave it for a few days on greaseproof paper to slow-dry on a sunny window sill and its flavor is delightfully seaweedy; dry in a very low oven for 15 minutes (more if needed) and it’ll be a little brighter. Try half a batch of both and see which you prefer.

 

2/3 oz marjoram leaves

12 chive flower heads

2 ¼ oz coarse sea salt

 

Place the leaves, 8 of the chive flowers and the salt (add last to weigh down the herbs) in a coffee/spice grinder and whizz thoroughly: the change in tone from clatter to dentist drill tells you when it’s as it should be. If there are any remnants left unreduced, stir and whizz briefly again. For the oven-dry method, spread out (the salt, not you) on baking parchment on a baking sheet, and place in a very low oven; 230°F. After 10-15 minutes it should lighten in color. Scratch it up a little with a fork to expose the parts that are still a little damp and return to the oven. After 15-20 minutes it should be fairly dry. Allow to cool, add the remaining chive flowers (broken up a little), then jar immediately and try to focus on whatever else the day brings. A bit of finely grated lemon zest can be added.