Robin’s Mushroom Conserva

 

The story behind this dish and her notes follow: “In the fall, chanterelles are oozing out of the forest floor in Washington. My forager, Matsutaki Joe, would show up with bins of them at incredible prices. This is how we captured their essence and enjoyed them in a variety of ways at Crave. My favorite was serving them atop grilled baguette slices rubbed with garlic and smeared with goat cheese. They were incredibly addictive and lasted all winter long. I make sure I have a batch of these on hand all year round for that appetizer on the fly when a friend stops by.” Serve the mushrooms over pasta (such as pappardelle), on flatbread, or even on grilled fish.

 

kitchen notes: Use the freshest possible mushrooms; anything tough, wilted, or with evidence of mold or tiny holes should be discarded. Brush away any pine needles or debris, and trim tough stems.

 

2 pounds assorted wild mushrooms (Robin’s favorites are chanterelle, hen-of the-woods, porcini, and oyster)

2 cups distilled white vinegar

1 cup red wine vinegar

3 cups water

2 medium cloves garlic, slivered

2 T. fine sea salt

10 sprigs thyme

3 bay leaves

2 (2-by-1/2-inch) strips lemon peel, removed with a vegetable peeler

Ground black pepper

2 cups good-quality’ extra-virgin olive oil

 

Tear or cut the mushrooms into thin strips, V4 to V2 inch wide and 2 inches long. Any small mushrooms should be left whole for added aesthetics. (Robin likes to do this with baby oyster mushrooms and hen-of-the-woods.) In a medium saucepan, combine the vinegars, water, garlic, salt, 7 of the thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and 1 of the lemon peel strips. Over medium-high heat bring the brine just to a boil. Remove from the heat and let steep for about 15 minutes.  3 Return the brine to a boil over medium heat and add the mushrooms. Cook for 5 minutes, pressing the mushrooms down into the brine if they float to the top. Drain the mushrooms and spread on a clean lint-free towel to absorb excess moisture. While cooling, sprinkle the mushroom with pepper. Transfer the mushrooms into 2 sterilized pint jars (or 1 quart jar) and completely cover them with the oil. Add 2 of the bay leaves from the brine, the remaining 3 sprigs thyme, and the remaining lemon peel strip, along with a large pinch of additional salt. Cover and tap the jar on the counter to remove any air bubbles. Set the jar in a dark pantry away from sunlight and let the mushrooms cure at room temperature for 1 week. The mushrooms will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 year. The oil may congeal, so remove the jar from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before using. Note that the mushrooms pack a puckery punch and a little goes a long way. “Save the preserved oil!” says Robin, who likes it brushed on crostini.