RABBIT (OR CHICKEN) RILLETTES

3 rabbit legs (or chicken thighs)

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 1/2 tablespoons (50 g) butter

3 1/2 tablespoons (50 ml) olive oil

A few sprigs fresh thyme

1 cup (250 ml) white wine

About 1/2 cup (125 ml) crème fraîche

3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

Juice and finely grated zest of at least 1/2 lemon, or to taste

Crusty’ bread, a nice baguette, or toast

Possibly some cornichons (small French pickles)

 

Of course the name technically isn’t correct: In French cuisine, rillettes are traditionally made from fatty meat trimmings: pork or goose, for instance. The meat is slow cooked in its own fat, after which it solidifies into a much-beloved, spreadable rustic paste. Rabbit and chicken are relatively lean. Therefore, I add some fat myself: The crème fraîche provides the requisite creaminess in this recipe, making it a bizarrely delicious little starter that you can make in advance and store in the fridge. Lovely.

 

Sprinkle the rabbit legs with salt and pepper. Heat the butter and oil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Brown the rabbit on all sides. Add the thyme. Douse with the wine and cover with a lid. Lower the heat and let the rabbit stew for about 2 hours, until the meat starts to loosen from the bones. Check once in a while to make sure the pan isn’t too dry, and pour in a splash of wine or water if needed. Flip the meat now and again. Allow the meat to cool somewhat without letting it get too cold. With clean hands, pull all the meat from the bones and remove the thyme sprigs. Keep the fat in the pan! Shred the meat in a stand mixer or hand mixer using the whisk attachment; do not use a knife or food processor. If you grind the meat in a food processor you’ll end up with baby food, and that’s not what I have in mind. The meat’s texture shouldn’t be broken down. Add the crème fraiche as well as some of the reduced wine-fat mixture from the pan. Season the rillettes with salt, pepper, tarragon, and the lemon zest and juice. You may be a little bold. Otherwise they can become too bland after cooling down. Transfer to small clean jars or a spotless bowl and store the rillettes in the fridge to stiffen. This can be done a few days in advance.

 

Remove the rillettes from the fridge several hours before serving so they won’t be ice-cold and will be smooth and spreadable. Give each dinner guest a mini jar, or a generous scoop on each plate, along with some bread and cornichons.