1 pound ramps
1/2 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp. pickling salt (or any other finely milled salt)
1/2 tsp. coriander seeds
1/2 tsp. black peppercorns
1/8 tsp. red chile flakes
1 bay leaf

Wash the ramps well. Trim away the leafy greens and root ends. Combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt with 1/2 cup/120 ml of water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Place all the spices and the bay leaf in the bottom of a clean l-pint/500 ml jar and pack the trimmed ramps into the jar. Pour the brine over the ramps, leaving 1/2 inch/12 mm of headspace. Tap the jar gently to remove any air bubbles. Add more liquid to return the headspace to 1/2 inch/12 mm, if necessary. Wipe the rim and apply a clean lid and ring. Let the jar cool for at least an hour and then place in the refrigerator. Give the ramps at least a week in the pickling liquid before eating. Note: Because nothing about ramps is neat or precisely cultivated, you have to take a bit more care in their preparation. Wash them well in several changes of cold water to ensure you remove all the grit. And don’t toss the green tops! You can either sauté them and serve them as a cooked green or whirl them into an oniony pesto.