Using a Mortar & Pestle
If you have already bought or have been given a new mortar and pestle set, there are a couple of things you will need to do before you get down to the serious business of the alchemy of culinary potions. Just like any new utensil, the mortar and pestle should be cleaned and seasoned before use.
1. Wash in clean water without detergent and air-dry.
2. Grind roughly a small handful of white rice. Discard and repeat if necessary until the rice remains white and does not discolor. This will depend on the type of material your set is made from.
3. Add 4 cloves of garlic, 1 tsp. cumin, 1 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper. Grind and discard.
4. Wash in clean water without detergent and air-dry.
If you already have a set and missed these steps, don’t panic. It just means that whoever ate your first efforts probably ingested some stone dust, minigravel, or wood sharings. It will be long gone by now with the subject none the wiser, and it will not affect the ongoing performance of your set. Only you, your enthusiasm, and your passion can do that.
Once you are ready to start, a good rule to remember is:
Driest ingredients first.
Moist ones next.
Oily ones next.
Wet ones next.
Taste and add salt to your work if needed.
Never use soap or detergent to clean your set, as perfume particles can be absorbed and taint your food.
To sanitize stone, heat occasionally in the oven at 350°F/i8o°C for ten minutes. Make sure to leave the mortar and pestle to cool in the oven, door open, once it’s turned off. Never try and lift out a heavy, hot stone or you may do more damage than break a toe.
For all recipes, garlic count is peeled and in cloves, anchovy count is in preserved fillets, and flaked salt is not rock salt. Chili means fresh, deseeded, long and spicy, not short and dangerous, and sugar generally is for any natural sweetener, e.g., honey, natural cane sugar, molasses, agave nectar, date sugar, brown rice syrup, maple syrup, pomegranate molasses, but not artificial substitutes. Bread crumbs means fresh or dried, herbs means leaves and stalks except for coriander, which includes roots as well, and mint, which is leaves only. Nuts are roasted and shelled, pepper is cracked or whole, white, black, pink, or green. Cheese is grated, fruit is stoneless, spices are lightly toasted or roasted. The method of mixing is for you to decide, but try grinding dry- ingredients first, then add moist, then wet ingredients.
Mortar & Pestle Aioli
4 garlic cloves
Flaked salt
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
(An option is to add 2 tsp. quince paste at this stage.)
1 egg yolk
Slowly drizzle in 1/2 C. olive oil while mixing.
1 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. cold water
Slowly drizzle in an additional 1/2 C. olive oil.
Should be the consistency of mayonnaise. Great with pasta, meat, crudités, vegetable, salads, chicken, fish.
Mortar & Pestle Berry Sauce
Any soft seasonal berries can be crushed in the mortar. The amount depends on the size of your mortar but most will hold at least 1 punnet (pint). A few drops of balsamic vinegar or kirsch will enhance the flavor of the berries even more, and they can sit happily crushed and liquefied and steeping in your mortar for hours. Assuming you can keep everyone from tasting them, simply spoon them at the last minute over, under, or around desserts, into cocktails, or as a plate garnish around meat, chicken, or crustacean dishes. And if there are any left over, you might have to make pancakes or crispy cream waffles for breakfast.
Mortar & Pestle Bread Sauce
4 garlic cloves
1 finely chopped onion
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. green peppercorns, brine drained
Grated Nutmeg
Salt
2 C. fresh white bread crumbs
4 tsp. fresh cream
2 tsp. butter
Mix all together in the mortar and pestle and then stir and heat in a small saucepan with 2-3 tsp. melted butter. When the garlic, onion, and crumbs begin to caramelize, toast, and take on color, blend in 450 milliliters of cream. Bring slowly to a gentle rolling boil, stirring to incorporate as it heats. Check the seasoning before serving. This amazing, often neglected sauce is wonderful with all roasts and all manner of grilled and barbecued meats and fish.