This carefully balanced umami pesto has magical powers. It enhances without diminishing other flavors, adding depth and fullness to a dish when needed. So far, I‘ve swirled generous amounts of it into carrot soup, added it to the dressing for a salmon and pasta salad, combined it with cream cheese for an appetizer spread, and spread it under the skin for a succulent roast chicken.

1½ C. shredded Parmesan
1 C. pitted Calamata olives
½ C. sun-dried tomatoes, packed in oil
½ C. roasted red bell pepper, peeled (homemade or store-bought)
4 large cloves garlic, peeled

10 tsp. best quality tomato paste (6-oz. can)
½ C. cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil

2 tsp. balsamic vinegar
2 tsp. red wine vinegar
2 tsp. powdered, dried porcini mushrooms
1 tsp. hot, smoked paprika

1½ tsp. fine sea salt, plus more to taste
freshly ground smoked black pepper, to taste (or regular black pepper)

In a processor fitted with the steel blade, add Parmesan, olives, tomato paste, sun-dried tomatoes, red bell pepper, and garlic, and pulse to chop the ingredients coarsely. Then, process to a paste. Add the tomato paste and olive oil and process to incorporate. Add the balsamic vinegar, red wine vinegar, powdered porcini mushrooms, smoked paprika, sand salt. Process to incorporate. Taste the pesto and add salt and pepper to taste, plus additional vinegar if necessary to achieve a perfect balance of savory, salty, and acidic. You will also notice a subtle sweetness, which is lent by the balsamic vinegar. To store, put into an airtight container and refrigerate. The pesto will keep for several days at least. You can also freeze it, in which case, line an edged baking sheet with foil and drop 2 tsp. blobs of pesto on the foil. Freeze and then transfer the pesto blobs to Ziploc freezer bags for continued storage.