Reliable biscuits start with clumpy buttermilk. Really! Usually, properly combining melted butter with buttermilk (or any liquid) requires that both ingredients be at just the right temperature; if they aren’t, the melted butter clumps in the cold buttermilk. This may look like a mistake (and in recipes like fine-textured cake it is), but it mimics the process of cutting cold butter into flour and is the secret to this recipe. The result is a surprisingly better biscuit, slightly higher and with better texture. That’s because the lumps of butter turn to steam in the oven and help create more rise.

In addition to the variations listed, feel free to use other herbs (chives, rosemary, thyme, and sage work especially well). Use no more than a tsp. or two of stronger herbs like rosemary and sage. One tsp. coarsely ground black pepper is another good stir-in as is 1/.4 C. thinly sliced scallions. Crisp bits of fried bacon (6 slices, cut in half lengthwise and then crosswise into 1/4-inch strips) can also be folded into the dry ingredients.

Drop Biscuits

You will need about 2 tsp. melted butter for brushing the tops of the biscuits.

2 C. (10 oz.) all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. sugar
¾ tsp. salt
1 C. buttermilk, chilled
8 tsp. unsalted butter, melted and still warm, plus extra for serving

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt together in large bowl. In separate bowl, stir chilled buttermilk and melted butter together until butter forms small clumps. Stir buttermilk mixture into flour mixture until just incorporated and dough pulls away from sides of bowl. 3. Using greased 1/4-C. measure, scoop out and drop 12 mounds of dough onto prepared sheet, spaced about 1 1/2 inches apart (scant 1/4C. per mound). Bake until tops are golden brown and crisp, 12 to 14 minutes, rotating sheet halfway
through baking. Brush baked biscuits with extra melted butter to taste, transfer to wire rack, and let cool slightly. Serve warm.

Cheddar Drop Biscuits: Whisk 1/4 tsp. dry mustard and 1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper into flour mixture, then stir in 1 C. shredded cheddar cheese, breaking up any clumps, until coated with flour.

Tarragon-Gruyere Drop Biscuits: Stir 1 C. shredded Gruyere cheese and 1 tsp. minced
fresh tarragon into flour mixture, breaking up any clumps, until coated with flour.

Basil-Parmesan Drop Biscuits: Stir 1 C. grated Parmesan cheese and 2 tsp. chopped
fresh basil into flour mixture, breaking up any clumps, until coated with flour.