If using extra-large eggs, reduce the number of whole eggs to seven. If using jumbo eggs, reduce the number of whole eggs to six. If you like, dress up these eggs by folding in 2 T. minced fresh parsley, chives, basil, or cilantro, or 1 T. minced fresh dill or tarragon, after reducing the heat to low.

Despite what you might think, the eggs shouldn’t be stirred constantly while they cook. Instead, fold them with a rubber spatula into a tidy (and high) pile that traps steam. More steam means more volume. So, for light, tender eggs, be gentle and use a rubber spatula.

8 large eggs plus 2 large yolks
1/4 C. half-and-half
Salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 tsp. unsalted butter, chilled (butter is a MUST)

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Place 4 heatproof plates on rack. Beat eggs and yolks, half-and-half, 1/4 tsp. salt, and pepper with fork until thoroughly combined and mixture is pure yellow; do not overbeat.. Melt butter in 10-inch nonstick skillet (For eight eggs, we use a 10-inch pan—crowding the eggs in the pan traps steam and ensures fluffy results. Use an 8-inch pan when cooking four eggs (or less)) over medium-high heat (butter should not brown), swirling pan to coat. Add egg mixture and, using heat-resistant rubber spatula, constantly and firmly scrape along bottom and sides of skillet until eggs begin to clump and spatula leaves trail on bottom of skillet, 1 1/2 to 2 ½ minutes. Reduce heat to low and gently but constantly fold eggs until clumped and slightly wet, 30 to 60 seconds. Immediately transfer eggs to warmed plates and season with salt to taste. Serve immediately.

Smoked Salmon Scrambled Eggs with Chive Butter

Mash 3 tsp. softened unsalted butter with 3 T. minced fresh chives. Toast 4 (l-inch-thick) slices rustic white bread, then spread with 2 tsp. chive butter. Cook eggs as directed, first melting remaining chive butter in pan. Immediately spoon eggs on top of buttered toasts, top with 3 oz. smoked salmon, and serve. Garnish with extra chives if desired. You could replace salmon with sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, sautéed peppers, crisp bacon,
or browned sausage rounds.