1¾ C. all-purpose flour
1 T. baking powder
½-1 tsp. salt (depending on what cheese and add-ins you’re using)
¼ tsp. freshly ground white pepper (or more to taste; you could even add a pinch of cayenne)
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1/3 C. whole milk, at room temperature
1/3 C. extra-virgin olive oil
1 generous C. coarsely grated Gruyere, Comte, Emmenthal, or cheddar (about 4 ounces)
2 ounces Gruyere, Comte, Emmenthal, or cheddar, cut into very small cubes (½-2/ 3 C.)
½ C. minced fresh chives or other herbs (or thinly sliced scallions)
1/3 C. toasted walnuts, chopped (optional)

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Generously butter an 8-x-4½-x-2¾-inch loaf pan – a Pyrex pan is perfect here. If your pan is slightly larger, go ahead and use it, but your loaf will be lower and you’ll have to check it for doneness a little earlier. Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt, and white pepper together in a large bowl. Put the eggs in a medium bowl and whisk for about 1 minute, until they’re foamy and blended. Whisk in the milk and olive oil. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry ingredients and, using a sturdy rubber spatula or a wooden spoon, gently mix until the dough comes together. There’s no need to be energetic – in fact, beating the dough toughens it – nor do you need to be very thorough: just stir until all the dry ingredients are moistened. Stir in the cheese, grated and cubed, the herbs, and the walnuts, if you’re using them. You’ll have a thick dough. Turn the dough into the buttered pan and even the top with the back of the spatula or spoon. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the bread is golden and a slender knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a cooling rack and wait for about 3 minutes, then run a knife around the sides of the pan and turn the loaf over onto the rack; invert and cool right side up. The bread can be served when it is still slightly warm, but I think it tastes better when it has cooled completely. If the bread is keeping company with drinks, cut it into 8 slices, about ½ inch thick, and cut the slices into strips or cubes.

Bonne idee: You can use whatever hard cheese you like most or whatever combination of cheeses you have on hand. You can vary the herbs just about any way you wish – I really like this with basil or a mix of herbs that includes basil — or you can skip the herbs. And you can have a field day with add-ins; for example, you can mix in diced ham, bacon bits, toasted chopped nuts, olives, sun-dried tomatoes, minced shallots, or small pieces of cooked vegetables.

Bonne idee: Bacon, Cheese, and Dried Pear Bread. For this bread, you’ll need 5 strips of bacon, cooked until crisp, patted dry, and chopped into thick bits, 1 C. finely chopped moist dried pears (about 3½ ounces), and 1 T. minced fresh sage instead of the chives, stirred in just before the dough goes into the pan. I think the toasted walnuts are a must in this one. If you really want to change things up, instead of adding cubes of Gruyere or other hard cheese, fold in a blue cheese, like Roquefort, Fourme camAmbert, or Gorgonzola.