4 1/2 lb. assorted chicken pieces, preferably drumsticks and thighs
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
3 T. olive oil
6 to 8 shallots, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 bottle (750 ml) full-bodied white wine
3 T. small pieces dried mushrooms, such as chanterelle or porcini
2 cups chicken broth
2 T. coarsely chopped fresh tarragon
3/4 cup heavy cream
A few drops of fresh lemon juice (optional)
2 T. chopped fresh chives
1 to 2 T. chopped fresh chervil or flat-leaf parsley

Preheat an oven to 350°F. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, then rub with the olive oil. Heat a large, heavy fry pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, sear the chicken, turning occasionally, until browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter. Pour off all but 1 T. of the fat from the pan and place over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the wine, increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Cook until reduced by half, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the mushrooms, broth and 1 T. of the tarragon. Pour the sauce into a deep roasting pan large enough to hold the chicken in a single layer. Arrange the chicken in the sauce. Transfer to the oven and roast until the chicken is opaque throughout, 35 to 40 minutes. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F. Roast until the edges of the chicken skin are crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a deep platter and cover loosely with aluminum foil. Skim the fat off the sauce. Place the pan over high heat, bring the sauce to a boil and cook, stirring, until reduced by about half, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in the cream. Adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Pour the sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with the chives, chervil and the remaining 1 T. tarragon. Serve immediately.